Adopting

Common Questions

Q. What are the adoption fees and what does it include?
A. The adoption fee at the moment is now $125.00 . That includes them being spayed or neutered with age appropriate vaccines , flea treated , dewormed , FELUK/FIV tested, microchipped and will come with vet records plus as a added bonus you will receive a Free City of London Cat License.

Q. Will my current cat(s) get along with the adopted cat?
A. This is a concern we hear often! When first introducing your new cat to its home and to other cats and/or dogs, some of the typical behaviours you will see are hiding, hissing and growling. This is normal behaviour and the cats will either learn to ignore each other or become the best of friends! Cats must work out their hierarchy by showing their dominance. You can place the new cat in a room on its own until it becomes comfortable in its new surroundings. They can spend the first few days smelling each other through the space at the bottom of the door. Gradually introduce the pets to each other. Giving an adult cat a new life can be very rewarding, as people usually adopt kittens, leaving adult cats to live out their life at shelters without enough human contact.

Q. What can be done about scratching?
A. Cats like rough surfaces that they can shred to pieces. The best scratching posts are those covered in sisal. The post should be tall enough that the cats can fully extend their body when scratching, and secure enough that it does not fall over.

Do It Yourself Options: The reverse side of a rug provides a good, satisfying resistant texture for scratching. You can staple or tape sections of the rug to a wall or post. A tree stump is also an excellent natural option.

The scratching post should initially be placed in an area used by the entire family, and not hidden in a back corner. After such time as your cat is comfortable with using this post, you can gradually move its location to the side of the room.

Rub dried catnip leaves onto the post to entice kitty to use it.

Reward kitty with treats when he/she uses it.

If at first your cat is reluctant to give up its old scratching areas (furniture, carpet, wallpaper) there are ways you can discourage this. Cover the area with aluminum foil which has a texture that cats normally do not like to scratch.

Cats also do not normally like citrus odours so the use of lemon scented sprays on the old scratching surface may make it less appealing.

Keep a small spray bottle filled with water. A spray of water is effective in discouraging negative behaviour.

Q. How do I teach my new cat to find and use a litterbox?
A. Cats are very fastidious animals and love to be clean. That characteristic, plus the fact that mother cats are really good at house-breaking their kittens, means that you should not have too much trouble. You really should keep your new cat in one room or a small area of the house to begin with and gradually let it find its way around more and more of the house. So put the litterbox in the room with the cat (preferably where you plan on keeping the box in the future) and as soon as you bring your new cat or kitten home, just put it in the box once to show it where it is, and the cat will be able to find it whenever it needs.

Q. What is microchipping?
A. Microchipping involves the implantation, by a veterinarian, of a small microchip under the cat´s skin. The microchip is enclosed in a special capsule and is about the size of a grain of rice. It is a simple and safe procedure and is not painful to the cat. Each of these microchips are programmed with a unique identification code, and emits a signal when scanned with a special wand. This unique number is also registered in a central database, along with the owner´s vital information, and can be used to reunite the animal with the owner. Microchipping is the best chance of having a lost pet reunited with their owner.

Q. How do I trim my cat´s claws?
A. If possible start training your cat to have its claws trimmed as a kitten. Gently stroke your cat´s paws often, getting it used to having its paws held before you attempt trimming. Be sure to reward your cat with a special food treat-one that it receives only during claw trimming or some other grooming procedure-during or immediately after trimming. The best time to trim your cat´s claws is when it is relaxed or sleepy. Never try to give a pedicure right after a stressful experience or an energetic round of play.

Your cat should be resting comfortably on your lap, the floor, or a table. Hold a paw in one hand and press a toe pad gently to extend the claw. Notice the pink tissue (the “quick”) on the inside of the claw. Avoid the quick when you trim the claw; cutting into it will cause pain and bleeding. Remove the sharp tip below the quick (away from the toe), clipping about halfway between the end of the quick and the tip of claw. If your cat becomes impatient, take a break and try again later. Even if you can clip only a claw or two a day, eventually you'll complete the task.

Q. Is it okay to have my cat declawed?
A. The short answer is: NO. Declawing is a misnomer.

The surgery involves amputation and severing of the tendons.

Increasing evidence is becoming available regarding the negative effects of declawing a feline.

Cats R Us believes that declawing is inhumane and causes unnecessary pain and suffering with no benefit to the cat. Some European countries have banned declawing.

Many people falsely assume that declawing is just like trimming your nails or getting a manicure. In reality, it is a painful and permanently crippling procedure. The following are eight reasons why you should never declaw your feline friend:

  1. Declawing a cat is the equivalent of cutting a persons fingers off at the first knuckle. Ouch!
  2. Clawing is a natural, healthy and important behaviour. Cats scratch to exercise and enjoy themselves, maintain the condition of their nails, and stretch their muscles. Claws are a cat’s first line of defense. While we hope that your cat remains safely indoors at all times, if he or she were ever to get outside without claws, your cat would be far more vulnerable to predators and abusers.
  3. Declawed cats often become more defensive. Many people think that declawed cats are safer around babies, but in fact, the lack of claws makes many cats feel so insecure that they tend to bite more often as a means of self-protection.
  4. Pain continues even after surgery. Cats are in pain when they awake from the surgery, and the pain continues afterward. Nails can grow back inside the paw, causing extreme pain that you can't see.
  5. Declawed cats are more likely to do their business outside of the litterbox. Without claws, even house-trained cats might start "doing their business" outside the litterbox in an attempt to mark their territory.
  6. Declawed cats have to relearn how to walk. Our toes are crucial to our balance, and it's no different for cats! Because of impaired balance after the procedure, declawed cats have to relearn how to walk, much as a person would after losing his or her toes.
  7. Many countries have already banned declawing. Nearly two dozen countries—including Australia, England, and Japan—ban or severely restrict declawing surgeries. And many veterinarians in the United States refuse to perform the procedure.

How to Choose

Choosing the right cat/kitten for you can seem like a daunting task. Cats R Us are experts in cat-humane matchmaking! You can preview on our website which cats are currently up for adoption. When you’re ready, come visit us at The Catty Shack to have a chance to meet your potential new fur-ever friend in-person.


What You Need

Bringing home your new cat is a big life change! It’s best to be prepared and to make your cat’s transition to a new fur-ever home as easy as possible. Here are some great tips to help you:

Before You Bring Your Cat Home:
Cats are territorial, and coming into a new home leaves them feeling really uneasy. There’s all that unexplored space, and who knows what may lurk there. Do them a favour and provide a small area to call his own for the first few days or weeks. A bathroom or laundry room works well. Place in that room your cat amenities, such as food, water and a litter box. Make sure you spend some time with your cat in this space as well—bonding time is very important.

Choose a litter box that suits the size of your cat. If you buy a small litter box for your kitten, you will need to get a larger one as the cat grows up. Fill the litter box 1/2–3/4 of the way full of litter. It is a good idea to keep a broom and dust pan handy to regularly tidy-up around the litter box.

Set-up a feeding station with a bowl for food and one for fresh water Locate it away from the litter box. For more cat feeding and nutrition tips.

Cats love to hide away in small places, and you can provide one for your new cat as their own little safe space. Once your cat comes to their new home, they will especially appreciate this. You can also make one by cutting a doorway at the end of a box. Pet stores have a selection of covered cat beds. No matter what you choose as their hideout, make sure the space is big enough for the cat to stand up and turn around in.

Cat’s will want to wear down their claws by scratching things. There are ways to prevent them from scratching you sofa. You can purchase a corrugated cardboard post or matt, or pick up a scrap piece of clean carpet from your local pet store or hardware store. Encourage your cat to use the post/carpet by sprinkling it with catnip or dangling a toy at the top. They’ll get the idea that it is theirs to scratch and rub up on. You may want a scratching post in each room where there is soft furniture, perhaps blocking access to it. Before you buy a bunch, get one to see if your cat likes it and uses it. You can also install sticky tape (available at pet supply stores) to corners of upholstered furniture to dissuade scratching or cover the area with aluminum foil (from the grocery store). Whatever you do, do not ever declaw your cat—this practice is incredibly inhumane and cruel.

Walk around your home with a curious cat’s-eye view, looking for its climbing and exploring potential. When your cat is acclimated to your home, you may be surprised to find him on top of the upper kitchen cabinets, so make sure there’s nothing on display there or on other high shelves that can be damaged or knocked off. If your cat tends to jump up on places where they are not wanted (the kitchen counter), buy a small spray bottle to lightly spritz your cat with water as a way to discourage unwanted behaviour and set boundaries. It doesn’t hurt them! One spritz of water is enough.

Look for holes or registers that leave ductwork accessible and cover them up. A kitten can easily slither into one of these.

If there are other human family members, go over the ground rules about your new pet. It’s best if everyone is on the same page.

Already have pets at home? Make sure you mention this to us when you are looking to adopt! We’ll give you some tips on how to slowly introduce your new cat to the home as smoothly as possible. Above all when bringing the new cat home, keep the door to their room closed (or cleverly gated) and don’t let your other pet race in. Again, cats are territorial as are some dogs.

First Day:
Preferably, bring your new cat home in a cat carrier. Take the cat directly to their new room. Ideally, you would restrict their exposure to the whole family (human or pets); but naturally, everyone is going to want to see the new family member. Remind them of the ground rules you’ve set up.

Sit on the floor and let your cat come to you. Don’t force. Let them get acquainted on their own time. If they don’t approach, leave them alone and try again later. Some cats are particularly frightened, and may retreat to a hiding place and not come out when you’re around at all. She may only come out at night when the house is quiet. Be patient.

Your newly adopted cat may not eat much or at all at first. It’s best to give your cat the same food they had at the shelter or in her foster home, at least at first. Keeping some things familiar will make them feel more secure. Sometimes a sudden change in food can bring on diahreea and gas. Be sure to change the water daily and make sure that they are drinking. If your cat hasn’t eaten for a few days, call your vet to ask for advice.

Located at:

The Catty Shack
756 Windermere Rd.
London, ON
Phone: 519-518-6369 (MEOW) or
519-878-6369


Hours

Thursday: 11 a.m. - 4 p.m.
Friday: 2 p.m. - 7 p.m.
Saturday: 11 a.m. - 4 p.m.
Sunday: 11 a.m. - 4 p.m.


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Cats R Us is committed to providing care for homeless, lost and stray cats and kittens, but we could use your help.


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